How To Guides

September Sew Fun Harvest Sweatshirt Tutorial

Tuesday, September 29th, 2015

This is a fun use for an embroidery design set that was originally designed to be a table runner. Lee decided to be extra creative and use the design set to embellish a cute sweatshirt jacket. It was simple to do and makes quite an impact. You could use a variety of design sets to create your own stunning project.

Here are the steps:

  1. Back of Finished Sweatshirt.

    Back of Finished Sweatshirt.

    Embroidery Design: “Along the Fence Table Runner” by Jana Davidson. Large design, pieced together. Leave the extra fabric on the end pieces. (You might need to add a little more to reach around the front.)
  2. I used a men’s size medium sweatshirt. Cut the ribbing off the sweatshirt. Cut it open at the center front. Staystitch the neckline.
  3. Bind the top of table runner using 2-1/2″ straight strip of fabric. Sew the table runner onto the bottom of the sweatshirt. Bind bottom of sweatshirt and the sleeves.
  4. I used a straight strip of fabric: 5-1/2″ wide for the front bond. I cut 2 strips of fabric 5-1/2″ x 45″, seamed them at center back and then padded them with fusible fleece.
  5. Shape the front by cutting 2″ off the center front at the bottom and cut a line to the shoulder seam. Sew the band on center back to bottom on the wrong side of the sweatshirt. Seam across the bottom. Trim off excess. Turn, top stitch and you’re done.

Happy Sewing!

Ann’s “White and Black Binding”

Thursday, March 12th, 2015

From Ann:

As I have been traveling around with Sew Fun I have had numerous requests for a copy of three demos I have done on Binding. I thought the easiest way would be to post them on the blog and then you could read and copy them. Here they are:

  1. Foolproof Binding Method
  2. Starting and Ending the Binding
  3. White and Black Binding


White and Black Binding

How often have you gotten to the binding and realized you were a few inches short? You can use muslin or other scrap fabric for the underside of your binding. Here’s how:
• For a 2 ¼” wide binding, cut your fashion fabric 1 ½” wide and a piece of muslin 1 ¼” wide
• For 2 ½” wide binding, cut your fashion fabric 1 5/8” wide and a piece of muslin 1 3/8” wide
• For a 2 ¾” wide binding, cut your fashion fabric 1 ¾” wide and a piece of muslin 1 ½” wide
• For a 3” wide binding, cut your fashion fabric 1 7/8” wide and a piece of muslin 1 5/8” wide

Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch binding and muslin RST. Press seam toward muslin and then press your binding strip in half WST as you normally would. Bind your quilt as usual.

Ann’s “Starting and Ending the Binding”

Thursday, March 12th, 2015

From Ann:

As I have been traveling around with Sew Fun I have had numerous requests for a copy of three demos I have done on Binding. I thought the easiest way would be to post them on the blog and then you could read and copy them. Here they are:

  1. Foolproof Binding Method
  2. Starting and Ending the Binding
  3. White and Black Binding


Starting and Ending the Binding

Step 1.
Starting: I begin on the center bottom edge. Fold the end of the binding at a 45 degree angle and press. Cut on the diagonal leaving a ¼” seam allowance. Start sewing the binding to the quilt with the folded edge of the binding open. Sew through one binding thickness for about 3-4 inches, keeping the raw edge of the binding lined up with the raw edge of the quilt top. Backstitch and cut threads.

Starting and Ending the Binding 1

Step 2.
Fold the binding into the doubled position. Start sewing an inch or so forward from where you end in step 1. Now continue sewing around the quilt. Miter your corners as usual.

Starting and Ending the Binding 2

Step 3. Ending:
After you have sewn the binding around the whole quilt stop stitching 4”-5” from the starting point, leave the needle down. Bring the unstitched end of the binding and overlap to the pressed 45 degree angle. Measure past the pressed edge and cut off the excess length, leaving ½”-¾” past the pressed edge. Tuck the end of the binding into the pocket formed at the starting point. Continue to stitch through all thicknesses and making sure you stitch past the point of your first stitching. Backstitch and cut threads. Enjoy!

Starting and Ending the Binding 3

Ann’s “Foolproof Binding Method”

Thursday, March 12th, 2015

From Ann:

As I have been traveling around with Sew Fun I have had numerous requests for a copy of three demos I have done on Binding. I thought the easiest way would be to post them on the blog and then you could read and copy them. Here they are:

  1. Foolproof Binding Method
  2. Starting and Ending the Binding
  3. White and Black Binding


Foolproof Binding Method

This is a binding method that I have used for years. It is a fast and foolproof way to bind your quilts. It will give you the result of having your binding stitched evenly on the front and back of your binding. You can miter your corners as usual. The binding is stitched to the wrong side of your quilt & wrapped to the right side of your quilt for topstitching the binding in place.

START: Cut your binding 3” wide. Press in half WST as you would normally do to create your binding. Stitch the binding to the wrong side of your quilt using a 3/8” seam allowance, starting and ending with your favorite method. Remember when mitering your corner, you will need to stop stitching 3/8” from the edge. This distance is determined by the width of your seam allowance.

Foolproof Binding 1

Foolproof Binding 1

PRESS: Once you have stitched and mitered your corners, press the binding toward the seam from the right side of the binding. Wrap the binding to the right side of the quilt.

Foolproof Binding 2

Foolproof Binding 2

KEY TO SUCCESS: When wrapping the binding to the right side of the quilt, look for the 3/8” seam allowance stitching (Look for the Line). Wrap the folded edge of the binding so that it just overlaps this stitching by a couple threads. Topstitch binding using a 1/8” seam allowance from the folded edge of the binding. Your binding will be stitched evenly on the front and back binding! Practice a couple times and you will be a binding pro. Enjoy!

Foolproof Binding 3

Foolproof Binding 3

Light Up Halloween with Spooky and Bright Designs!

Monday, September 15th, 2014

Spooky and Bright Designs

With Halloween approaching it’s time to have some spooky fun with Amazing Designs “Spooky and Bright” CD. This design pack was created so you can add lights or crystals to embellish your embroidery projects. We offer Fabric Lights that fit perfectly within the designs.

To add lights to your design:

  1. Embroider the desired design on anything you want to add a little sparkle to.
  2. Use small sharp scissor to poke a hole in the middle of the eyelets with-in the design. Trim away the extra fabric close to the inside of the eyelet; be careful not to cut the embroidery
  3. After the holes are trimmed, begin inserting the lights from the wrong side, taking care not to tangle the wires.
  4. Once the lights are inserted; place a rubber holding ring over the lights to secure them.
  5. Your lights are now in place and ready to use…enjoy!

For even more Halloween fun…

Download Baby Lock’s FREE Halloween Project E-Book Here!

8 Fun Halloween Projects!

8 Fun Halloween Projects!

More Great Halloween Projects:

Happy Halloween Project: Minkee Monsters!
Quick & Easy Halloween Tutorial Round-Up

Chalkboard Wine Bag Sewing Tutorial

Thursday, July 31st, 2014

Sew Fun for August has many great ideas for gifts for you to make. To get you started, here is a quick wine bag that you can personalize with Chalkboard Fabric, and Bistro Chalk Markers.




  • Sewing Machine and Serger in good working order
  • 18”x18” Burlap
  • 4” x18” Chalkboard fabric
  • Serger thread in beige (4 cones)
  • Sewing thread in black
  • Temporary Spray Adhesive
  • Edge Stitching Foot
  • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler
  • Clover Wonder Clips
  • Bistro Chalk Marker, your choice of color
  • 25” of 1” wide ribbon, your choice of color




1. Burlap – 18” x 18” (I cut mine so that the frayed selvedge edge was the top of the bag. Example 1)

2. Chalkboard fabric – 4” x 18”

3. At your sewing machine: Place the long edge of the chalkboard fabric strip, across the width of the burlap, 8” from the top, not including the fringe. You can use a spray adhesive to keep the chalkboard fabric in place while stitching. Spray the back of the chalkboard fabric lightly. Example 2

4. Top stitch along both of the long edges with black sewing thread.

NOTE: Using an Edge Stitching Foot would make this task much easier.

5. At your serger: Bring the edges together, matching the short edges of the chalkboard fabric. Serge seam with a 4-thread or a 4-thread safety stitch.

6. Center the seam in the middle of the bag. Example 3. To simplify Step 8, press a crease in the lower sides of the bag.

7. Serge across the bottom of the bag.



8. Bring bottom seam and side crease together to form a triangle. Measure 1 ½” – 2” and cut with a rotary cutter. Repeat for the other side. Example 4.

9. Because burlap ravels easily, use Clover Wonder Clips to secure as you go to your serger. And, the Clover Wonder Clips are great for the serger, because you can’t accidently serger over them :)

10. Serge both edges. Example 5.

11. Press seams and turn bag right side out.

12. Write your celebration on the chalkboard fabric with a Bistro Chalk Marker.

13. Place wine bottle in bag and tie on your ribbon. Example 6.







Enjoy your sewing adventures!
Lana L Jones
Educational Consultant

Custom Name Flourish

Tuesday, July 22nd, 2014

By Lana L Jones, Educational Consultant, Quality Sewing

When you were a kid, you probably doodled your name on your notebook to see what you could make. With a few handy free apps, you can create custom name flourishes and easily use your Brother ScanNCut to cut them out of fabric for applique, paper and cardstock for scrapbooking, vinyl for glass etching or clothing…The “doodling” is endless!

1. Inkscape is a free program. Download it at

2. has free fonts for personal use. Download the font Antsy Pants and place in Fonts in your computer (check your computer’s “help” on how to do this).

3. At this time, I would also suggest creating a folder named ScanNCut or SNC. This will make it easy to save all of your files, class notes, designs, etc. in one folder.

4. Open Inkscape

5. Select File/New/A4. A4 is the size of paper – 210mm x 297mm or 8.3” x 11.7”

6. Select Create and Edit Text Objects in the tool bar on the left.

Example 1

7. Click the dropdown arrow for font selection at the top left of the page and select the font Antsy Pants. In Font Size click the dropdown arrow and choose 144px. Example 1.

8. Left click in the work area. You will see a flashing cursor. This is where the letters will start. Don’t worry if you did not place it in a good spot, we will be moving the lettering around to fit our needs.

9. Type the name you wish to use. Example 1.

Example 2

10. In order for Inkscape to create the cut lines so the ScanNCut canvas can use them, choose Select and Transform Objects from the tool bar. This will place a surrounding box around the letters.

11. Select Path from the menu bar. Then choose Object to Path. That is it… the software did the work, but you did not see anything happen.

12. While your name is highlighted, right click in the work area and select Copy, then right click again and choose Paste.

Example 3

13. The name may be over to the side of your screen. Left click and drag it and place it under the first entry. Example 2.

14. Select Flip Selected Objects Vertically. Example 3.

15. Select Zoom In or Out, then choose Zoom to Fit Selection in Window, so both names fill the screen.

16. Click Select. This will select the last entry you just flipped.

17. Left click and move the name up so that all the letters touch. Some letters, such as J and Y will overlap. You want as many letters touching as possible. Don’t worry about adjusting it left to right. We will take care of that in a minute.

18. Hold down the Shift Key on your keyboard and select both names.

19. Select Object from the menu bar. Choose Align and Distribute.

20. Select Align Left Edges.

21. While both are highlighted, select Object from the menu bar, then choose Group.

22. Select Zoom In or Out and choose Zoom to Fit Page in Window.

Example 5

Example 4

23. Click Select.

24. Select Rotate 90° Clockwise. Example 4.

25. At this time the letters are separated. We need to connect them so they look like a design instead of disjointed objects. Select Create Rectangles and Squares from the tool box.

26. Left click and drag a long skinny rectangle to connect all the letters together. You may find that you want to drag several so as not to cover up some of the holes. You will also need to decide the width. At the top of the screen you will see several boxes of numbers: W for width and H for height. Use these to easily adjust the rectangle to your liking. In the Example 5, the lines are in red to easily see what was done. I did not want the hole between the A’s covered up, so I made 2 lines.

NOTE: To make it a bit easier, I created a long slender rectangle that I liked, copied and pasted as many as needed. In this example I just needed 2. Then I simply adjusted the height to match the area where it was placed. I used the Alignment tools to align in a straight line, zoomed in and did the final adjustments.

Example 6

27. Select Edit, then choose Select All. Click Object and then Group. This will group our entire design, including the new lines.

28. Right click in the work area and select Copy. Right click again and choose Paste.

29. Select Flip Selected Objects Vertically. Move the new design to the left side of the existing design. Adjust it so that 2 or more areas are touching. Example 6.

30. Repeat Steps 26-27 for the right side. Make sure the new design is equal distance from the center design.

31. Holding down the shift key of your keyboard, select both of the new designs. Select Object from the menu bar. Choose Align and Distribute.

32. Select Align Top Edges. Example 7.

Example 7

33. Select Edit, then choose Select All. Click Object and then Group. This will group our entire design.

34. Select File/Save As. Choose or create a folder to save your new design.

35. In File Name enter the name you choose. Example: LanaFlourish.

36. In Save As Type, click the dropdown arrow and choose Plain SVG (*.svg).

37. Click Save.

38. Go to If you have not already done so, create an account; it only takes a few minutes.

Example 8

39. Sign into Example 8.

40. Select Import SVG/FCM File.

41. Click Choose File. Locate the file you just saved, left click on it, and click Open. Click OK.

42. You will now see your design on the ScanNCut mat. Even though we grouped it in Inkscape, it is not grouped here. If you want to move the design to the center of the mat, group it first. Select Edit, then Select All. Edit, then Group.

43. Select Edit, then Select All if you did not do this in the previous step. To make the design cutter friendly, select Weld. Welding means the outlines of multiple patterns can be merged together to create a single outline.

Example 9

44. To look at your welding, click the dropdown arrow for View. Click Show Only Cutting Line. You will see exactly where the ScanNCut will cut your project. Example 9.

45. In Project Title give your new design a name.

46. Click Download. The system will take a bit of time depending on the size of your design.

47. In the upper center of the pop-up screen you will see the name you gave to your file followed by a .fcm. This is the file format for the Brother ScanNCut. Right click on the file name and choose Save Link As. Then choose your ScanNCut folder or a usb stick and click Save. Example 10.

48. Click Close when you are finished saving.

49. Copy your saved file to your usb stick if you didn’t already save it there. Place the usb stick in your ScanNCut. Cut a custom name flourish!

Enjoy your creative adventures!!

Lana L Jones

New Video: Embroidering Multiple Designs on a Pashmina Scarf

Wednesday, May 14th, 2014
Carmen & Reva model embroidered pashmina.

Carmen & Reva model embroidered pashmina.

Pashmina scarves are a great accessory. But they can be made to be even greater with embroidery. Watch our new video where Reva guides you through how to place multiple embroidery designs on a pashmina scarf:

For this project, Reva used a couple of very useful products:

Wet ‘n’ Gone Stabilizer

Reva used Floriani Wet ‘n’ Gone Stabilizer so that after she was finished with her embroidery she could simply wash the stabilizer entirely away, leaving no residue or bits of stabilizer stuck in the embroidered designs. We offer several varieties of Wet ‘n’ Gone stabilizer here.

Wet 'n' Gone

Wet 'n' Gone Stabilizer

Rayon Thread

Reva used rayon embroidery thread because of its softness so that the finished embroidery designs would not interfere with the natural draping of the pashmina. We offer several collections of Madeira Rayon thread here.

Rayon Thread

Rayon Embroidery Thread

Have you ever successfully embroidered on Pashmina? We’d love to know about it.

Happy sewing!

Create an Easy Jacket from a Pashmina Scarf

Monday, May 12th, 2014

What a quick and easy project to make for yourself or a gift?

Why not give transforming a Pashmina Scarf/Shawl into a cute jacket?

Pashmina scarves come in so many pretty colors and are so soft, you just want to wrap yourself up in them  (A pashmina is a long rectangular scarf/shawl with fringe on both short ends and is typically 27″ x 72″).

A friend of mine shared with me an easy way to turn one of these lovely scarves into a jacket that is great for an evening out or just to compliment your outfit.

At a recent event I whipped one up in a jiffy and it turned out so cute that there were so many requests for the instructions that I just had to get it posted right away.

Are you ready? You are only two seams away from a finished project!

Here are the instructions for this neat project that is oh so quick to make.

  • Along one of the long edges, measure in 9″ from each corner (this will be your sleeve opening).
  • Along the same edge, measure 2.5″ on either side of center (this will be your neck opening).

Once you have your pashmina marked, you are ready to sew your jacket.

  • Bring one fringed edge up to the marked edge, matching the top corner with the sleeve mark that you made.  This will create about a 45° fold line.
  • Align this short edge with the marked long edge, letting the fringe hang off of the edge.
  • Stitch both layers together, close to the edge (approximately 1/4″ seam allowance).  If you do not wish to have any fringe, consider using your serger.
  • Use a matching thread in the needle and in the bobbin.
  • Stop sewing when you reach the closest neck marking.  The remainder of the short edge (which is loose and unstitched) will become a collar.

  • Repeat with the other side
  • You are finished!!

Feeling frisky? Wear your jacket so that you have the fringe on the outside.

When you want your jacket to be more subtle, turn it inside out so that the fringe will be inside the jacket

Can’t decide if you want a jacket or a scarf?  How about sewing a series of button holes along the stitching area of the long edge.  Add some little buttons along the fringe edge and then you can button it up into a jacket or unbutton it for a scarf or shawl.

Want it to be even better?  Add some machine embroidery to make it a truly one of a kind piece.

Have a great time making your jacket!



Make sure to check  back and see my video blog on Embroidering on a Pashmina.

Cutting Wool Felt With Brother’s ScanNCut

Wednesday, January 15th, 2014

Cutting Wool Felt with the ScanNCut

We’ve been getting a lot of questions recently about how best to cut felt on Brother’s new cutting machine, the Brother ScanNCut. So Reva made this video where she demonstrates successfully cutting out felt designs that you can watch here:

One key to successfully cut felt is to stabilize the fabric as much as possible. Reva makes use of Perfect Sew Liquid Stabilizer in this video. You can inquire about it at your local Quality Sewing, or it is available on our website here. Perfect Sew is great because it can completely saturate the felt fabric in a way that a spray-on starch stabilizer simply can’t, and it washes away very easily!

And if you need any of the ScanNCut accessories, such as the Deep-Cut Blade or a ScanNCut Cutting Mat used in the video, you can find them all on this ScanNCut Accessories page.

If you have any questions about using your ScanNCut to its fullest potential, please don’t hesitate to contact your local Quality Sewing & Vacuum.

Happy sewing!